Tonight is Christmas Eve in Serbia and the last day of 40 fasting days before Christmas. According to tradition, today's lunch is a lenten lunch which usually consists of soup, fish, stuffed wine leaves, beans and salads and during the day we also eat dried fruit, walnuts, red wine and honey. Before lunch the tradition is to bring into the house a branch of an oak tree which symbolises the tree brought by a shepherd and given to Joseph and Mary to make a fire in the stable where Jesus was born. In the villages around Serbia the branch of oak is cut in the forest but in the big cities it's usually bought at the market or in church, and it is burned tonight to represent light and warmth bringing a new beginning. There are lots of traditions which symbolise Jesus's birth, for example, it's good to bring straw into the house to symbolise the crib in which Jesus was born, and to have coins scattered around the house similar to the gold coins given to Jesus by one of the Kings.

Tomorrow is Christmas Day and according to tradition, we go to the midnight liturgy, then in the morning a guest (ideally a young healthy male!) is allowed into the house on this day, bringing the new year. The greeting on the Christmas Day is Hristos se rodi which means Jesus is born - the reply is Vaistinu se rodi which means Verily is born. After returning from the morning liturgy the custom is to serve a Christmas lunch which means the end of the 40-day long fast. The feast starts with prayer, lighting a candle and incense. Lunch is different rotiserie meats, lots of cakes, salads and drinks, and a loaf of home-baked bread in which is hidden a coin - whoever finds it can expect lots more money during the coming year! The custom is to exchange presents and spend the whole day at home, visiting friends and family the next day.

Churches that follow the Julian Calendar celebrate Christmas Day on 7th January – Serbian Orthodox Church, Russian Orthodox Church, Jerusalem Church, Egyptian Kopti, some Etiophians, Ukrainians, Belorussians, Macedonias and Montenegrians.

Merry Christmas!

For more information about Serbia please check www.ReadyClickAndGo.com
 or email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com

Belgrade's Top Five Museums

After visiting Kalemegdan, Knez Mihailova Street, St Sava Church and quaint Skadarlija, there are some fine museums to explore;

Nikola Tesla Museum   We are all used to neon lights and remote controls nowadays, but it’s amazing to see the work that the Serbian scientist Tesla did back in the 19th century and how much he was ahead of his time - Tesla invented electricity and Edison copied his work. There are all type of models, displays and several exceptionally valuable collections in the museum.

Website: www.tesla-museum.org

Ethnographic Museum  One of the oldest museum in the Balkans with different folk costumes, textiles, embroidery, lace, musical instruments, furniture and art from all around Serbia. The permament exhibit takes up three levels of the building. The first floor represents the popular assembly, the second is related to textile production and the third is about culture of living. The symbol of the musuem is the Decanska Fountain located at its centre. Website: http://www.etnografskimuzej.rs/

Military Museum  I love this Museum! It's located at the heart of the Kalemegdan Fortress and you can’t miss it as outside the main entrance are a row of tanks and cannons. The  3,000 exhibits date from ancient times through the medieval era then towards more modern times, so there are Roman swords, Greek helmets, knights' armour, axes, shields, guns, badges and uniforms, and it's latest acquisition, parts of a US F-117 stealth aircraft which was downed by Serbian forces during the 1999 NATO bombing. Webiste: http://www.muzej.mod.gov.rs/

National Museum  Once one of the best Museums in the region has been more or less closed for refurbishment for the last 8 years, but the 3rd floor however is open and hosts an art gallery displaying just part of a very large collection of national and regional art.  The most precious part of the collection consists of drawings of French and west-European artists of the 19th century and include C. Corot (Meadow by the Swamp), E. Degas (from the series Ballerinas and Women at Toilet), P-A. Renoir (from the series Guitar Players, c. 1897), C. Pissarro (Market at Pontoise), J-L. Forain (from the series Satirical Scenes), P. Picasso (Interior with Three Figures, 1926). Also work of Mattisse ( head of Women, 1939) and Rodin ( Female Nude, 1905) can be found here. Website: http://www.narodnimuzej.rs/

Tito’s Museum or The Museum of Yugoslav History, or the House of Flowers I am sentimentally fond of this museum even though my first visit was only last year when I took my friends from London to visit it. I was born and grew up under Tito's regime and remember when he died the whole country came to a standstill, rightly worried what would happen now that he was gone.  He died in Slovenia and transferred to Belgrade's House of Flowers as it was known then for his final rest. At the beginning there were guards in very nice shiny uniforms giving the whole place a sense of importance, but nowadays the guards have been abolished and there is only one security guard in a small office on site. The graveyard is very simple – white marble with his name and date of birth and death, in gold. Some sceptics are saying that he wasn’t communist as there is no star on his grave, the communist symbol he fought for all his life. The place is interesting as it has a huge collection of relay batons, some of them dating back to 1945 when organised mass youth relays across Yugoslavia were common practice to express dedication to communism, Tito and the Party. Not far from Tito’s grave there is a permanent exhibition of the presents Tito received from dignitaries in Yugoslavia and abroad. I love a richly engraved 16th century sword from Iran.

The museum used to have more space before Milosevic moved into the neigbourghhood and decided to take part of the land from Tito's residence. Now on the right side there is a big brick wall and sometimes you can see part of the empty Milosevic residence. Outside the Museum in the main building there is a huge space which usually is used for exhibitions. webiste: www.mij.rs

Museum of Serbian Orthodox Church  It’s worth mentioning a visit to the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church which is situated opposite the Cathedral Church of St. Michael the Archangel. A few years ago the Royal Academy of Art in London organized very successful exhibition called Byzantium where exhibits from the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church were on display. Today the exhibits can be found in Belgrade and also a large number of  icons, church textiles, metal liturgy objects, manuscripts and old printed church books, portraits, graphics, etc. dating back to the 13th century. Webiste: http://www.spc.rs/

Among other museums there is the Historical Museum of Serbia  (http://www.imus.org.rs/ ) situated not far from the Ethnographic Museum and which hosts a large collection of Serbian flags and military badges.  Also it's worth mentioning the Aviation Museum (http://www.muzejrv.org/ ) situated near Airport Nikola Tesla, the Museum of Natural History (http://www.nhmbeo.rs/) situated at Kalemegdan Fortress and which is well known for hosting very unusual exhibitions. I would also mention the Railway Museum (www.zeleznicesrbije.com)

close to the Railway Station for enthusiastic trainspotters.

For private guided tour in Belgrade please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or check our website at www.ReadyClickAndGo.com

How to make Serbia's favourite dish - Sarma?

In one of my previous post I explained how to make a sauerkraut in order to make a Serbian favorite dish - Sarma. Today you will find a recipe how to make her Highness of winter dishes - sarma. If you need any help or explanation please email me at Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com  

You need the following ingredients:

5 large leaves of sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
1 pound minced pork or beef

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon of ground paprika

1/2 teaspoon of black pepper

2 large eggs, well beaten

1/2 cup of uncooked rice, rinsed

3 slices of smoked bacon

1/2 pint of tomato sauce 

6 tablespoons of cooking oil

4 tablespoons of flour

Gently fry in some oil the minced pork or beef, adding the salt, ground paprika, eggs and rice, and stir. Once it's browned, place a large spoonful of the mixture into each of the sauerkraut leaves, wrap them into rolls tucking the ends of the leaves in, and place in a cooking pot. My mum usually covers the bottom of the pot with cabbage leaves first, to prevent the sarma burning and disintigrating. Once all the stuffed leaves are placed neatly, cover them with a mixture of the smoked ham which we usually cut into small pieces fried with the tomato sauce for a juicy taste. Put any remaining cabbage over the sarma and add enough warm water to cover the rolls. Bring it to boil and then reduce the heat, cover and cook gently for 2 hours, adding a paste of oil and flour to thicken the sauce if necessary half way through.

  

Sarma freezes well and can be served hot or cold.

Enjoy.

For more information about Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or visit our website at www.ReadyClickAndGo.com

Travel Guide to Serbia

 

 

Getting there 

The main airport in Serbia is in the capital city, Belgrade, and it is named after the Serbian scientist Nicola Tesla. It’s avery small airport and quite close to the city centre. Once you are out of the building don’t let yourself be persuaded by cab drivers to take you to the city centre for 20 euros as that is not a bargain. As the airport is very close to the town (25 min from New Belgrade and 35 min from the old town, depending from the traffic over the Danube) you can get on the shuttle bus service provided by the national airline, still called Yugoslavian Airlines (JAT) or on one of the local buses (LASTA). The JAT shuttle will take you to the city centre and drop you in front of the Hotel Slavija, and the buses will take you to the train and bus stations which are not far from each other. The cheapest option is bus number 95 which stops close to the domestic departures building, but it does take ages to get into town, driving through all the new suburbs of Zemuna and New Belgrade – interesting though! Tickets can be bought before you catch the bus from the newsagent at the airport, and they cost 90 dinars which is less then £1.  
You can also fly to Nis, a quaint town in the south that is rapidly gaining popularity.  
Trains connect Serbia to all quarters of Europe, the main routes being Budapest, Vienna, Thessalonika, Bucharest, Sofia and Skopje and with the possible exception of routes to the East, they are comfortable, punctual and clean, and overnight trains are a good way of arriving. Trains within Serbia however are a little older and a bit shabby.
The Danube flows right through the centre of Belgrade and many river cruises on the way to the Black Sea from Budapest moor overnight here. It’s an expensive way to get to Belgrade, but you do have time to see Belgrade’s main street and impressive fortress.

Getting around 

Very difficult! Most maps, sign posts and other important information is written in the Cyrillic alphabet rather than the western Latin alphabet, and this is the official script of Serbia. You might find it useful to familiarise yourself with Cyrillic letters in order to be able to spell out words – names especially

The main public transport in Belgrade are the buses which are very frequent. There are thousands of taxis too, they vary in size, comfort and price – sometimes you get a little old Yugoslavian banger, sometimes a much more modern car! You can hail taxis in the street or go to a taxi rank, or call one (or get someone local to call one for you)
Beotaxi, 011/970 (White cab)
Žuti taxi, 011/9802 (Yellow cab)
Pink taxi, 011/9803 (Pink cab)
Hiring a car is very easy but driving on your own around Serbia could be a tricky business especially if you are a first time visitor. Driving is on the right, roads could be bumpy, traffic signs are posted in the official cyrillic letters and fellow drivers are not very patient. If you can’t afford to pay for someone to drive you around then travel by bus. 

Where to stay? 

In Belgrade I would recommend the Moscva Hotel which has a very long history (it opened in 1908), is very conveniently located in the city centre and has welcomed such distinguished guests as Albert Einstein and his Serbian wife, Mileva. Another hotel with a good location is the Balkan Hotel, not far from the Moscva.
Be aware that prices are higher but the standards not as good as in four or five star hotels in Western Europe. If you are going outside Belgrade I would suggest you stay in small inns which are affordable and professionally run. This Easter I am staying in one very close to the National Park of Fruska Gora., where there is a spa and a few beautiful old monasteries to visit.
Spa hotels are usually too expensive for the level of comfort they offer. The rooms are old fashioned and the hotels themselves usually a little unkempt as there has been not enough money for the government to invest in them (they are mostly state-run). However, the staff are always lovely!

National holidays 

There are too many holidays for the western soul! The number of official holidays comes from the fact that the old communist ones are still kept plus there are several new ones added since those days – so they represent the turmoil Serbia has been through in the last 20 years. 
January 1 – 2 (New Year’s Day), January 7 (Eastern Orthodox Christmas), January 14 (National Holiday (Orthodox New Year), February 15 (Constitution Day), 2 Apr Orthodox Good Friday, 5 Apr Orthodox Easter Monday, May 1 – 2 (Labour Day). 

Working holdays 

January 27 (Saint Sava’s Day), 9 May Victory Day, 28 Jun St Vitus’ Day, 31 December New Year Eve. 

Local time 

Central European Time Zone  GMT+1 

Visa

You may not need visa but you need to register with the Police. Registration is done automatically by hotel staff upon check-in, however if you are staying with friends in a private dwelling, you must register your presence with the police in the district in which you are staying.

Religion 

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion, the Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religions are Islam, Catholicism and Judaism. 

What is Serbia famous for? 

Hospitality – regardless of the hardship Serbians have been through in recent times guests are always very welcome. And always welcomed with open arms. 
Spas – the Republic of Serbia is rich in thermal mineral springs whose waters, depending on their chemical make-up, temperature and other properties, make it possible to treat and cure almost any illness for which spas are recommended. 
Monasteries – medieval orthodox monasteries such Studenica, Manasija, Žiča, Ravanica are an excellent opportunity to see part of Serbian history. If you are interested in art, there are excellent fresco masterpieces, especially the Beli Anđeo (White Angel) fresco in Mileseva monastery.
Nightlife – Belgrade is one big night club from 10pm until the early morning, especially during the summer time when most of the bars are open on the banks of rivers Danube and Sava. Drink domestic beers as the bars don’t stock a huge amount of foreign beers and they often run out of them. Try the national drink, rakija (raki) which is usually made of plums and is 40% alcohol. Older people swear by its medical attributes.
Festivals – Visit EXIT festival  that is happening in the beginning of July, in Novi Sad, on Petrovaradin fortress. The EXIT festival came into being in the year 2000 as an act of rebellion against the regime of Slobodan Milosevic, that had for years been keeping Serbia out of touch with the outside. The Belgrade Beer Festival, takes place at Ušće in Belgrade every August. Anotehr famous Serbian Festival the Guca trumpet festival also known as the Dragacevo Assembly is an annual brass band festival held in the town of Guča, near the city of Čačak, a three-hour bus journey from Belgrade.

What to eat? 

The main dishes are based on meat, usually pork. There are some vegetarian dishes available, and it’s vegetarian heaven in the weeks before the Orthodox Christmas or Easter when Serbians fast, or eat no meat.

• Gibanica – filo pastry pie with spinach and cheese or just cheese (like spanakopita or tiropita in Greece)
• Pasulj – beans, a national speciality, often cooked for a long time and delicious with cured meat.
• Prebranac – cooked and roasted beans with various spices and vegetables. Completely meat-free
• Punjene Paprike – stuffed peppers
• Roštilj– various meats grilled on an open fire, charcoal grilled. 
• Paprikas – stew with paprika, usually made with chicken
• Gulas – stew with paprika with beef
• Sarma – cabbage rolls, similar to dolmades but made with sauerkraut instead of vine leaves
• Riblja čorba – Fish soup using freshwater fish, very good at the barge restaurants along the Danube and Sava.
• Proja – a type of corn bread with white cheese, and a national speciality.

And don’t forget to try domestic product – rakija – ( raki) which is usually made of plums and has 40% of alcohol. Older population swears by it’s medical attributes.

Do not 

Talk about war. Especially the recent one. If you have to – talk about WWI and WWII. If you are gay do not show affection publicly – it is still a rarity here. 
If you need more information about travelling in Serbia please email Tara@ReadyClickAndGo.com or check our website at http://www.ReadyClickAndGo.com/